Dress-pattern.



J. BLACKBURN.

DRESSPATTERN. APPLICATION FILED OCT. 25, X915.

1,276,316. Pafented Aug. 20, 1918;

2 SHEETS-SHEET l.

Invenior. Jizdz'iha acltuz n.

fiiiorney.

1. BLACKBU'RN..

DRESS PATTERN.

APPLICATION map-oer 25, 1.915. r 1,276,316. Patented Aug. 20, 1918.

2 SHEETSSHEET-2.

Inven%or-. Jizdzflm Blackburn.

cEQ-Eiorn ey J UDITHA BLACKBURN, 0F LOSANG'ELES, CALIFORNIA.

DRESS-PATTERN.

Specification of Letters Patent. Patented Aug 20 1918.

Application filed October 25, 1915. Serial .No. 57,645.

To all whom it may concern Be it known that I, J UDI'lHA BLACKBURN, a citizen of the United States, residing at Los Angeles, in the county of Los Angeles and State of California, have invented certain new and useful Improvements in Dress- Patterns, of which the following is a specification.

This invention relates to improvements in dress patterns, and particularly to that class ofpatterns which comprise adjustable parts adapted to be set accordingto measurement so that the dress goods itself may be out directly therefrom without the formation of paper or other patterns.

It is an object of the invention to provide a pattern device "ith transversely extending pieces or members suitably positioned to receive the measurements taken around a per son at important points, as for instance at the neck, bust, waist, hips and at the bottom of the dress, and to provide longitudinal adjusted members adapted to be held by said transverse pieces, the said longitudinal members being capable of adjustment to measurements made between the said transverse members -whereby the longitudinal members may be shaped to give the proper form to the dress goods used for making a dress.

It is also an object of the invention to provide a dress pattern of the type just de scribed, in which component parts of the members that are shaped to various curved seams, gores, etc, are provided with curved end portions permitting them to be set to form a continuous even curve where required, curved portions being also provided at the neck and arm openings of the dress.

It is a further object of the invention to provide a dress pattern of the type mentioned with members adjustable for producing a pattern in cutting the inner and outer portions of sleeves.

Vith these and other objects in view the invention comprises certain novel constructions, combinations and arrangements of parts as will be hereinafter more fully de; scribed and claimed.

In the accompanying drawing forming a part of this specification,

Figure 1 represents a plan view of a portion of dress pattern adapted for one-half of the front panel of a dress.

, Fig.2 is a similar planview of a portion of a dress pattern suitable for the formation of another panel at the front.

Fig.3 is a plan view upon an enlarged scale of the pattern for the sleeves.

Fig. 4 is a plan view of the side back panel of the dress pattern.

Fig. 5 is a similar plan of the central back panel of the said pattern.

Fig. 6 is an enlarged detail View of the upper portion of one of the skirt panels illustrating the same as removed from the waist portion of the pattern.

Fig. 7 is a detail view of the lower portion of a skirt panel showing an additional member therein for lengthening the same.

or of a waist or a skirt, with the necessary curved portions given may be formed, thus facilitating the cutting of the dress goods to a perfect shape, in securing a properly fitting garment. The curved portions of the pattern are so shaped, and formed of a suflicient number of parts or members that the curves necessary at the bust, neck, arms and hips may be evenly and smoothly produced upon the pattern itself. It is an important feature of the pattern that the members which are to be adjusted in accordance with the measurements taken. from the person, extend upon the pattern along the lines of the usual and necessary transverse measurements; thus a transverse member extends across the upper end of each panel or section of the pattern at the shoulder, at the bust or shoulder blade line, at the waist, at the hips and at the bottom ofthe pattern.

Curved members are used at the neck and arms to secure a proper cutting of the neck and arm openings in the dress, the measurements necessary therefor cooperating with the other measurements of the neck and bust without disturbing the parts adjusted for said neck and bust measurements.

The details and features of the invention will now be more particularly described, reference being had to the drawings. It will be noted at the outset that the waist portions of the pattern embrace preferably two panels or sections for one-half of the front portion of the pattern, and two panels or sections of onehalf of corresponding back portion of pattern; the skirt sections of the different panels are the same throughout and the same numerals may be applied to similar parts thereof. Different numerals will be applied however to the parts of the waist in each panel or section of the pattern. The front portion of the pattern is made up of inner and side waist sections 10- and 11 respectively and of srirt sections 12'. The waist section 10 of the inner front panel in Fig. 1 is provided with a transverse mem ber 13 at the shoulder, a transverse member 14 at the bust, and a transverse member 15 at the waist. Each of these members is adjustably pivoted at its inner end, adjusting bolts 16, 17 and 18 being provided for holding them in position. The said transverse members are also provided with slots 19, 20 and 21 by which their side or outer ends may be adj ustably connected with the other members of the waist section. Scale indexes are also provided along the edges of said transverse members and adjacent to the said slots so that cooperating members of the waist section may be adjusted with respect to said scales.

Between the transverse members, adjust able upright members are provided. The inner end of the neck member 13 is adjustably connected with a curved neck member 22, the said neck member having slotted end portions and scales adjacent thereto as clearly shown in Fig. 1. The bolt 16 ad justably holds the said shoulder member 13 with respect to the upper slotted end of the neck member 22. Inter-posed between the lower slotted end of the neck member and the inner end of the bust member 14 is an upright member 23 which is also slotted and adapted to receive one or more clamping bolts 24 and 25. The said bolts engage the slotted upper end of an upright member 26, which is connected to the inner end of the bust member 14 by a bolt 17.. The setting of the members 23 and 26 accomplishes the ad-' j'ustment between the neck opening and the bust line in accordance with the measurement taken from the particular person who is to be fitted. The proper distance between the shoulder member 13 and the bust member 14 is secured by lapping adjustable members 27 and 28, the lapping portions thereof being slotted as shown in Fig. 1 and being set with respect to each other by the adjustment of bolts 29 and 30. The member 28 is adjustably connected with the transverse bust member 14 by a bolt 30 which may be set in the slot 20 in accordance with the bust measurements. Each of the members 26 and 28 project below the bust member 14 and lap upon upright members 31 and 32, the lapping portions of said parts being slotted and secured with respect to each other by clamping bolts 33, 34, 35 and 36. The lower ends of the members 31 and 32 are adjustably connected with the waist member 15 by bolts 18 and 37 The waist portion of the side front panel illustrated in Fig. 2' of the drawing is also provided with transverse members 38, 39 and 40 having pivot connections at one of their ends and having slotted scale portions at their other ends. The member 38 is adapted to form a continuation of the member 13 of the other front panelwhile members 39 and 40 are adapted to form continuations of the members 14 and 15 respectively. The pivoted end of the member 38 is connected with a slotted adjustable member 41 which in turn is connected by clamping bolts with an intermediate member 42, the said intermediate member lapping upon an adjustable member 43 clamped upon the slotted portion of the member 39. The lower end of the member 43 laps upon an intermediate member 44 held by clamping bolts and lapping upon a member 45 which is connected by a clamping bolt with the slotted portion of the member 40. All of said lapping members are slotted and their ends are curved in a direction to facilitate the formation of smooth curved lines along the edges of said lapping members when they are adjust-ed.

The slotted end of the shoulder member 38 is clamped with respect to a downwardly extending curved member 46 having an elongated slot therein extending nearly its full length. A cooperating curved arm pit member 47 is adjustably clamped with respect to the member 46 and at its lower curved end is provided with a slotted portion having a scale adjacent thereto. The said slotted portion is connected by a clamp ing bolt with the pivotal end of the member 39. Extending downwardly from the pivoted end of the member 39 is an approximately upright member 48 having its lower end slotted and formed with av scale and adapted to be clamped to the pivotal end of the member 40. An extension member 49 having a slotted upper end with a scale thereon, and a broadened lower end is clamped upon the lower end of the said member 48, extending from the member 40 downwardly. The outer edge of this member 49 is curved for forming the lower hip portion of a waist or long coat, when the skirt portion is not employed.

The back sections or panels of the pattern coiiperate with the front panels above described. The side back panel shown in Fig. 4 is provided with a shoulder transverse member 50, a transverse shoulder blade member 51 and a transverse waist member 52. Each of these members is pivoted at its outer ends and has a slotted and scale portion at its inner end. The outer edge of the pattern out by this member is adapted to fit upon the outer edge of the goods cut by the pattern shown in Fig. 2. The said panel is therefore provided with a curved slotted member 53 pivoted at its upper end to the end of the shoulder member 50 being connected therewith by a clamping bolt, the lower portion of the said member 53 is slotted and provided with a scale. An arm pit curved member 54 having aslotted upper end portion is adapted to be adjustably connected with the member 53 by a clamping bolt, while the lower end of said member 54 is pivotally connected by a clamping bolt with the end of the transverse member 51. The space between the members 51 and 52 at the outer edge of this panel is occupied by a straight member 55 pivoted at its upper end to the end of the member 51 and having a slotted and scale carrying portion at its lower end adapted to be adjustably clamped by a suitable clamp bolt to the end of the transverse waist member 52. A lower waist hip member 56 is also provided with a slotted portion adapted to beclamped with respect to the end of the waist member 52 and the upright member 55. The inner edge of the panel shown in Fig. 4 has a member 57 adapted to be adjustably clamped upon the slotted end of the shoulder member 50 and having a slotted lower portion adapted to lap upon an adjustable member 58 which is clamped upon the transverse member 51. The upper end of the member 58 has a slotted portion and one or more clamp bolts is used for adjustably connecting it with. a member'57. v The said member 58 extends below the transverse member 51 and is provided with a slotted portion adapted to lap upon'a slotted member 59 which is adjustably connected with the transverse waist member 52 and extends upwardly therefrom. Suitable clamp bolts adjustably connect the said members. The inner Waist panel shown in Fig. 5 is made up of a transverse shoulder member 60, a transverse shoulder blade member 61 and a transverse waist member 62. Upon this panel the said transverse members are preferably pivotally clamped at their inner ends while their outer-ends are slotted and provided with scales. The shoulder member 60 is adjustably clamped upon the upper curved slotted end of a neck member 63 by any suitable clamping bolt. To

the inner end of said neck member 63 is pivotally connected by a clamp bolt, a clownwardly extending vertical member 64 which is slotted at its lower end and adapted to lap upon the upper slotted end of a back member 65. The said member 65 is pivotally connected with the end of the member 61 and projects belowthe same, the lower end being slotted and lapping upon the upper slotted end of a member 66 which is pivotally connected with the inner end of the waist member 62. Clamping bolts engage the lapping slotted portions'of these back members as clearly shown in Fig. 5. The outer slotted ends of the transverse members 60 and 61 are connected by lapping slotted members 67 and 68, the member 67 of which is clamped by any suitable bolt to the slotted end of the shoulder member 60. The member 68 is clamped with respect to the slotted end of the shoulder blade member 61 and extends above and below the same. Its lower slotted end is lapped upon the upper slotted end of a member 69 which is adjustably clamped, upon the slotted portion of the waist member 62. One or' more clamping bolts connects the slotted lapping portions of these side members.

The upper portions of the front and back panels shown in Figs. 1, 2, 4 and 5 may be used if desired without the skirt portions of the device; They are however, employed in connection with said skirt extension portions as when making a dress or a full length garment or when making long coats and the like. The said skirt portions of the panel already described are all alike and a description of one will be sufficient for all and the same numerals will apply to similar parts throughout. Thus each panel is provided with an approximately straight edge and a curved edge, the straight edge side being made up of an up per member 70 which at its upper end is clamped to the waist section while its intermediate portion is provided with a slot 71 a little above the central part thereof, a

scale being arranged adjacent to said slot.

A transverse hip member 72 is pivotally clamped to the slotted portion of the member 70 and is preferably curved as clearly shown in the drawing and provided with a slot extending nearly the full length thereof. The lower end of the member 7 O is slotted for a considerable distance upwardly from the lower end thereof, a suitable scale being marked adjacent thereto. It is adapted to lap upon the upper correspondingly slotted end of a lower skirt member 73 which extends to the bottom of the skirt. Two clamping bolts are usually employed in connecting the lapping slotted portions of the members 70 and 73. A transverse bottom member 74 is also pivot ally connected by a suitable clamping bolt with the lower end of the said member 7 3. This bottom member 7% is also slotted for the greater portion of its length and is pros vided with a scale or. scales adj acent. to the slot thereof. The curved side of the skirt pattern ismade up of a sufficiently large number of lapping menibers to make it possible to more or less closely fit the hip portions of a figure, and the portion of said pattern between the transverse waist menr her and the hip member 72 of the pattern, is made up of a plurality of short lapping members as 75, 76, 77 and 7'8.- The upper one is adjustably clamped upon the transverse waist member, and the intermediate ones are connected by suitable adjusting bolts clearly shown in the drawing. Each one of these curved members is preferably like the one shown in enlarged detail in Fig. 8, one side thereof usually being straight as at 79 while the other side or edge thereof is provided with long curved portions 80 near each end thereof, which lead into the rounded end portions 81. In effect the ends of said members are tapered and rounded at their ends upon one side so that when they are set to form a considerable curve, as in giving the proper lines to the hip of the figure, as well illustrated in Fig. 6, a continuous curve can be given to the edge of the pattern along these lapping members. The shortness of these members also contributes to the continuity of the curve. The said members are also slotted approximately from end to end so that they may be clamped to adjacent lapping members by suitable clamp bolts in holding them in adjusted positions. The member 78 is clamped at its lower end to the curved hip member 72 by any suitable clamping bolt and laps upon a similar member 82 which extends above and below the hip member 72. Below the said hip member are a series of long members, 83, 84, 85 and 86 which lap upon the other, their lower ends being slotted and clamping bolts being employed for adjustably connecting them. The lower member 86 is longer than the one above and its lower end is adjustably connected with the slotted portion of the bottom member 74. The bottom portion of the pattern may be lengthened or increased in size by theemployment of extension members 87 and 8.8, which are slotted and provided with scales like the other members, the member 87 being lapped upon the member 74, and when the member 88 is used, it being lapped upon the member 87 as will be readily understood by reference to Figs. 2, 4 and 7 of the drawings.

' The skirt portion may be detached from the waist port-ion and used separately if desired, or' when the waist portion is to be used independently of th skirt portion. This is accomplished by removing the up.- per members 70 and 75 from therclamping bolts which connect them with the transverse waist member of the pattern; a curved waist member 89 is then used for the skirt patterna-s clearly shown in Fig. 6 of the drawing. This is pivotally clamped to the straight side of the pattern at the upper end of the member 70 and the curved slotted portions of said member 89 is adjustably clamped by any suitable bolt to the upper end of the upper curved forming member 75. The skirt panel may thus be adjusted for use as an extension to any one of. the waist panels as shown in Figs. 1, 2, 4 and 5. of the drawings or may be detached therefrom and used for any one of the panels of a skirt pattern.

In forming some kinds of skirts, especially where they are separate from the waist, it is sometimes advantageous to em.- ploy a, curve at the upper end of the straight side of said skirt pattern. In this instance a curved member 90 is employed and clamped to the member 70 at the slotted portion 71 thereof as clearly shown in Fig' 6 of the drawing. The upper end of said curved member 90 may thus be used to give a curved form to the approximately straight side of the panel. This is frequently useful in forming skirts with undivided side panels and gives the proper curvature over the hips toward the front and back thereof.

In order to complete the dress pattern a sleeve pattern portion is provided and formed to cobperate with the other portions of the device. The sleeve pattern is preferably made so that it may be employed in cutting both the under arm and outer side portions of the sleeve and is therefore made up of three sets of longitudinal members, the inner set having lapping members 91, 92 and ,93,the intermediate one having lapping members 94:, 95 and 96, while the outer member has lapping members 97, 98 and 99. The meeting and lapping portions of all of these members are slotted for a suitable distance at their lapping ends and one or more bolts is employed for engaging said slotted portions and clamping the lapping members together according to the measurements of the sleeve. The upper end of the said longitudinal members are connected by lapping adjustable end members 100 and 101, the member 100 being pivoted by a clamping bolt to the upper end of the member 91 and having an elongated slot 113 which is adjustably connected by a clamp bo t o the upp n of e m mbe as a scale being arranged along one side of the saidslot 113. The upper edge of the menibe 100 s o nded an c ed o fo m he cu end p rtio of the ut slee e set ps- Adja ent to said upp r enrvededge w is a curved slot 102 having a scale adjacent thereto and the curved inner end of the member 101 laps upon the slot 102 and is provided with a slot 103, an adjusting clamping bolt 104 being employed for engaging the said slots102 and 103 for reducing or lengthening the upper curved edge of the outer half of the sleeve. The end of the member 101 opposite to the said slot- 103 is pivotally connected by a clamping bolt with the upper end of the member 97. The curved portion of the inner sleeve panel which extends into the arm pit, follows approximately the curvature of the slot 118 between the members 91 and 94 and the distance between the members 91, 92 and 93, from the members 94, 95 and 96 is spaced according to measurements to give the side lines of the said inner sleeve panel.

of the inner and outer longitudinal members and the outer edges of the curved parts 100 and 101 while the lower ends of the sleeve members are out along the edge of a member 105, which is pivoted at one end to the lower end of the member 93 while its other end is lapped upon and adjustably connected with a slotted member 106, the said member 105 having a correspondingly slotted lapping portion with a scale marked adjacent thereto. Suitable clamping bolts) adjustably connecting the lapping portions ofthese members and also clamping them with respect to the lower end of the member 96. The outer end of the member 106 isalso secured by a clamping bolt to the lower end of the member 99. The lower edge of the member 105 is suitably inclined to give the proper angle for cutting the lower edges of the sleeve panels. i

The longitudinal members of the sleeve pattern are adjustably connected by lapping transverse members 107 and 108 having slotted inner lapping portions connected by clamping bolts. One of said bolts also connects the said transverse members .with the intermediate longitudinal member 95. The: said lapping members 107 and 108 are also provided with a scale. The said transverse members at the upper and lower ends of 'the sleeve pattern and at the intermediate portion thereof make it possible to set the pattern in accordance with the measurements at the shoulder and wrist as well as. at the elbow, both for the inner as well as the outer panels of the sleeve. The intermediate longitudinal members 92, 95 and 98 are also provided with scales so that the longitudinal measurements of the arm may be used in securing the right lengths of the sleeve panels.

While the clamping bolts employed throughout the dress pattern may be of any desired type, they are usually made as shown in enlarged form in Fig. 9, compris- The outer sleeve panel follows the outside lines sponding relation.

ing a bolt proper 109 having a flat head portion 110 formed with or without a bite in the usual manner for engaging a screw driver. The other end of the bolt is threaded and engaged by any suitable thumb nut 111. clamp 2, 3 or 4 members together as may be desired. 0

In employing the pattern, transverse measurements are taken at the shoulder, at the arm pit, at the waist, at the hips and at the bottom, thus giving all of the important transverse measurements and taking them at points where they will not interfere with each other when the. longitudinal portions of the pattern are measured and adjusted. The scales upon certain panels of The bolts are made long enough to v the pattern lap with each other so that the panels which they are to produce. Thus the scales upon the neck members 22 and 63 correspond so that when a neck measurement say of 12 inches is obtained, the members 13, 23 and 60 are set upon marks'of the scales numbered 12. The scales upon the armhole members 46, 47 and 58 and 54 are so related and marked that when an armhole of the size, say of 14 inches is measured, the lapping portions of said armhole members are set at marks on other scales opposite the figures 14. Each of the transverse members of the outer and inner portions of the front and back panels also have a corre- Thus the panels of the front section as shown in Figs. 1 and 2 have transverse members which are to give continuations of the same measurements and v and proportioned so that by setting the parts on the numbers given by the neck, bust or waist measures, tlfe proper adjust ment of the transverse portions of the pattern may be secured. It is important in taking the bust and waist measures that the transverse members be slightly inclined from the armpit toward thefront in Figs. 1 and 2 and from the arm pits upwardly at the back as in the panels in Figs. 4 and 5. Thus the measurement for the bust can be taken on the line of the arm pit around the largest portion of the bust at the frontand over the largest portion of the shoulder blades at the back, without disarranging in any way the members at the armhole and between the arm pit or bust line and the waist line. The waist measurement also is thus secured from a point a little low in the front to a point somewhat higher in the middle of the back.

The inclination of the members 14 and39, 51 and 61 will be apparent from the drawing and also in the waist. The longitudinal distance between the transverse members are secured by actual measurement between the shoulder and the bust line and between the bust line and the waist line. In the skirt the longitudinal measurements are also taken from the person between the waist and the hip lines and between the hip line and the bottom of the skirt. The portions of the pattern both in the waist and in the skirt where more or less curvature is re quired is made up of lapping panels as already described which have both a longitudinal adjustment with respect to each other as well as an angular adjustment. By this means very smooth curved lines may be Obtained for the perfect fitting of the figure of a person. The direction of the lines along the edges'of the adjacent panels in the front are of course quite diii'erent as shown in Figs. 1 and 2 and the difference in the curvature of these adjacent edges is such as is necessary, when the dress panels made in accordance with the patterns are stitched together, to give the right fitting for the waist and skirt portions. The outer edges of the panels shown in Figs. 2 and 4 possessing the greatest'curved portions of the pattern are of course brought together in sewing up the seams at the side of the dress, skirt or waist as will be readily understood. The approximately straight portion of the panel in'F 5 extends to the middle of the back. It will be evident that the parts of the pattern may be accurately adjusted to the measurements taken from the person to be fitted and the adjustment of the panels of the said pattern are sufficient at all points to secure all curvatures required with any degree of fullness necessary. By making the front and back portions of the pattern in two panels as illustrated and described it is possible to secure a very accurate fitting and a proper shaping of the waist, skirts or dresses of various kinds. The double sleeve pattern is also admirably adapted for the production of any desired sleeve, the one pattern being ample for forming'the inner and outer. panels of the sleeve. The various panels'of the pattern when adjusted in accordance with the measurements taken from the figure of a person may be used for out ting the goods itself in producing a garment, without the necessity of drafting a pattern therefor. It will be evident that the mechanical details of construction may be considerably varied without departing in the least from the spirit of the invention.

hat is claimed is:

1. A dress'pattern composed of panels in cluding longitudinal and transverse members adjustable relative-to each other, said longitudinal members being composed of a plurality of relatively adjustable elongated sections opposite portions of the body having a minimum curvature, and a plurality of short sections opposite the portion of the body having a maximum curvature for conforming said members to the outline of the body, and means for locking said longitudinal members to said transverse mem bers when a desired position of said longitudinal members is established.

2. A dress pattern comprisii'ig transverse members at the neck, bust, waist and hips, curved members comprising a plurality of relatively adjustable sections at the arm pits, and longitudinal members composed of a plurality of long and short and relatively adjustable sections, said longitudinal and arm pit members being adjustable on said transverse members and capable of being locked thereto at desired positions.

3. A dress pattern having front and side front sections and back and side back section panels, each provided with a waist portion and skirt portion, the skirt portions of said pattern being detachably connected with the waist portions at the waist line, said skirt portions being provided with transverse members and lapping longitl'idinal members adapted to be adjusted between each set of transverse members to longitudinal and angular relation with respect to each other.

4." A dress pattern comprising a plurality of waist panel sections, and skirt panel sections adapted to formcontinuations of said waist panel. sections at the front and a plurality of similar waist and. skirt sections at the back, and means for adjusting the portions of said sections in accordance with the measurements taken around a person to be fitted'and longitudinally thereof.

5. A dress pattern having supplemental front waist sections and supplemental back waist sections provided with inclined members at the arm pit of the pattern adapted to be applied as continuations of each other, whereby measurements at the largest portions of the bust and shoulder blades may be secured without interfering with the armhole measurements'or the measurements be tween the bust and waist lines and means for adjusting the sections for producing a continuous curved line.

6. A dress pattern having a plurality of waist panels for the front and back of the waist and a detachable skirt pattern, the said skirt portion of the pattern being reversible and adaptable to each waist panel for producing the different panels necessary 120 for the formation of the skirt.

In testimony whereof I have hereunto set my hand in presence of two witnesses.

J U D ITHA BLACKBURN.

Vitnesses CA'ssELL SEVERANCE, EARLE R. POLLARD'.

Gopies of this patent may be obtained for five cents each, by addressing the Commissioner of latents, Washington, D. G. 

